3 year follow up...Gon Bops

[congamyk]

Charles you got the best 3 drums for gigging. The Supa tumba is almost as big as a coffee table

[torpedo tom]

75 smackers? What a deal!!!! Also, love the color.

[cdldrum]

CongaMyk,

Good point... I remember a few years back I was
smitten with the Gio Palladiums...went down to the local Guitar
Center. Played em' , loved em', lifted em' and decided too much
heft to be hauling around for gigs. I'm only 56 but damn, bad back,
bad shoulders. Embarrased to admit, I use a rolling cart and rolling gig
bag... I even converted my sets to 20/12/14 for the same
reason. Even on a throne about 5 hrs. is my max. Never used to be
like this, but I want to keep playing so actively persue work-arounds.
So , the search was on for good sounding , lighter load - out,
and something I would enjoy playing. Thus , these conga.

(wow, I'm officially sounding like and old man now... wish I had
a few do-overs,...would pay better attention to ergonomics
(never heard of that word back in the lifting Hammond B-3's with
Leslies into the back of pick-up trucks).

really good point CongaMyk....

Charles

[cdldrum]

Sirs,

Please, a little help for a novice.... as mentioned previously, I
had the synthetic switch out on my congas for cuero ... my
question , is this water buffalo or steer ? (I included 2 close-ups).
The color may be a little misleading as I occasionally add a few drops
of extra virgin light olive oil (wipe off excess after is sits overnight).
After reading many posts on the forum I assume the mass production
congas use synthetic or water buffalo to cut production costs (among other
reasons).

As many here are enamored with the mule , I was considering/thinking
about trying the quinto out with mule (2mm) but would think I would
need to add an alma before I do that .... correct ? I do enjoy the tone
and feel of the current skins on the conga/tumba. Not sure I'll do anything
but does seem many here migrate to at least some combo of mule / steer.
Any other rubberwood owners switch to mule ?

Of course I need to review my motivations for changing out perfectly good
skin... more then tone or feel , to be honest, just wanted to experience the
difference discussed here on the forum ...not such a good reason I'm thinking
(as I type this).

Thank you

Charles

[Mike]

Yup, those skins are water buffalo.

Nothing TOO bad about them if the sound good to you.

I have an 1980s LP Siam oak set with Michael´s L&H mule on it, they cut through,
but are also a bit on the ringy side (I have fond ways to settle this).

A certain amount of ringiness will not vanish with ither skins though, that is inherent to the shells.

And one can live with that.

[cdldrum]

Thanks Mike,

Did you add an alma ? I understand the thicker heads require
added tension which can pull the Siam Oak out of round if
left under tension.

re: ringiness....initially , these conga rang like a bell, the change
to skin and more refined tensioning intervals, combined with ageing
heads has really reduced that issue...or else, I'm just more accepting
of it....(initially I considered the internal tape/muff etc., but the
change in heads probably has the greatest effect).

Thanks

Charles

[Mike]

Charles,
I think it is not really necessary to install an alma, as Siam Oak is a tough wood
and can stand a lot of compression.

Two of my vintage French Delaporte congas which are ash and made of spruce (!)
do have an alma, as that wood is pretty tender (yet very positively resonant).

So I would not worry about an alma with your GBs for other skin types .

[cdldrum]

Perfect. Thanks Mike.

Charles

[RitmoBoricua]

As many here are enamored with the mule , I was considering/thinking
about trying the quinto out with mule (2mm) but would think I would
need to add an alma before I do that .... correct ?

One thing you have to be concerned with is the hardware.
There is the chance the mule head you installed could be
way too thick for your drums hardware. Some of the newer
drums hardware are not really designed to handle thick heads.
Meaning the hardware on your drum may fail under the enormous
pressure required to torque down thick mule heads.

[bongosnotbombs]

Not everyone likes mule skin, I sure don't, but to each their own. Leave the skins on if you like them.

[cdldrum]

Thank you gentlemen for the free advice. Appreciated.

Ritmo.... agree , I have no idea what amount of torque these
pretty little chrome hardware can endure... don't think I want
test it.... might end up like the one in the photo below.... bet
the conguero could still make them sing.

BnB... yep, am happy with what I have, kind of displaying the
"grass is always greener" mindset. Need to get back to working
on technique. As the Maestro(s) below demonstrated... it ain't the
drum....

Thanks again.


Charles

[RitmoBoricua]

Charles,

No problem you just trying to help.

[cdldrum]

Just for the sake of completion....

Force injected Elmers Carpenter Wood Glue into the stave seam
where the split was visible (internal and external)....cleaned off the excess,
rope tied for a couple days.... replaced the bottom band.... applied new Gon
Bops bumper guards (for the novice like me...they thread onto the tension rod
and slide over the tuning nut..so losing one will be pretty hard to achieve).
Re-tuned and back to practicing.

Thanks.

Charles

[Seneferu]

The Siam Oak or rubberwood is an inferior wood in my opion. The wood does not fare too wdll in our climate. I bought a lp valje brand quinto. The wood kept cracking, even before I left the store. I wkuld go with domestic woods like maple, Appalachian oak, North American ash, or cherry. Costs more money, but are more durable. Peace

[Kaban]

Rubber wood isn't as good as traditional tone woods (Red Oak, Mahogany, Maple, Ash), but it still sounds good. High end tone wood cost, but you don't need to pay top bucks to get a good sounding drum. Rubber wood cost less, it's tonal quality is a nice warm, but ringy tone ( thick skins remedy this ). Most would agree that LP rubber wood drums seldom crack. Rock those drums!