Best way to sand congas

[sumo]

Hi

I have just bought some old Raul by Bauer congas (not sure how old they are but it does say Brin-Plas on the sticker) They are a little bit scratched... quite a lot to be honest with a couple of deep ones thrown in. I think im gonna try and tidy them up a little.

Can someone tell me the best place to start? Do i sand by hand? Do i use electric? Do i need a wood filler for the deeper scratches? What kind of Varnish should i use? Do i just give them to a proffesional Conga refurbisher? So many questions i know!

Help!!! lol

Love and respect

Sumo x

[deadhead]

I use a small vibrating sander, however I've heard several stories of electric sanders vibrating the shell too much and causing staves to split. I've personally never had that problem, but each drum is different, and it all depends on how well the drums were constructed and the quality of glue used. Doing it by hand is definitely safer, but takes forever. Removing the old finish is the toughest part to do by hand, but you may look into applying a stripper to help loosen it up.

Start with a 80 or 100 grit and work your way down to a smooth finish ending with something like a 600 or lighter. As far as deep gouges go, I don't know what the other guys do, but I would use a filler of some sort. If you try to sand the gouges smooth you will wind up with flat/uneven spots. On my last project I used a product called liquid wood that worked very well. It comes in several different wood tints, though I would go with whatever is closest to the finish you will be using as opposed to the color of the natural wood.

There are tons of finish options. I've used Minwax stains and Watco Danish Oil, both apply very easily and look great. 2 or 3 coats with a light sanding in between is all you should need. You can add a coat or 2 of polyurethane to protect the finish and add the glossy look.

Refinishing is a fun but rigorous project, expect your drums to be out of commission for a while. The end result is so worth it though, and it is especially rewarding to know that you did it yourself.

[bongosnotbombs]

I prefer by hand and sand with the grain. Start of with 100. Finish
with lighter. I usually finish with 300 or so, but really it depends on
the final finish you are sanding. I'm usually sanding an oil finish.

I also like the Watco Danish Oil. I've used Tung and Linseed oil, but those take
a long time to dry.

I think some of the "old school" Matador projects by Yambu123 are cool. He cleans
up the drum but leaves the scratches for a very cool look.

Here's a Valje, I recently cleaned up a little and coated with Watco. I sanded down to
220 grit.

[OLSONGO]

You sand and choose the paper grit according to how open is the wood grain, too coarse of a paper may put more scratches on a tight grain.. high density wood .

Paz
Olsongo

[sumo]

Thank you so much you guys. I really appreciate u taking the time to help me. Its been a labour of love from the beginning to be honest starting yesterday with a 500 mile round trip to the lovely seaside town of Brighton (uk). I'm sure they will be worth it in the end.

You guys have got me off to a good start, I can't wait to start!! I will prob have to give them a skin job after all the sanding is over. I will post the 'before' pics this week - and the after ones as soon as my work is done. .. Could be some time. Lol

many thanks again for ur help.

Sumo x

[buckoh]

Sumo, I don't recommend sanding as a method of stripping. I repair & refinish furniture for a living and only strip when I absolutely have to. I'd recommend one of the new non toxic strippers that is water washable and soy based. It will soften many finishes. When it softens the finish, start using a paint scraper in the direction of the grain to remove finish. Sandvik makes one with an orange handle that has a replaceable/sharpenable blade. Use 2 hands and try not to gouge the wood. Once most of the finish is off, reapply the stripper and use warm water and coarse steel wool or fiber pad to clean it up. Then start with the least coarse grade of sandpaper, probably around 100 and work up to no higher than 240, always going with the grain direction. If you use a finer grade of sandpaper you will burnish the wood fibers and the stain and/or finish won't go on evenly. I would hand sand with a block. Conga drums aren't that big. A good wood filler is white glue with sanding dust from the project. For finishes, you have many choices. Matthew Smith uses an over the counter oil based poly that he brushes on. Minwax Wipe On Poly has given me good results on furniture, also. I have lots of water based clear finishes that were sent to me free by distributors (does that make me an endorser-probably not-LOL) so, I use them. I like to spray and can build the finish rapidly. I'll post pics of my GonBops that I'm working on, when done.
I don't recommend using sanding to strip because it removes wood. I did use a random orbit sander on the Gon Bops due to some deep, discolored scratches. I noticed that at the bottom, where I didn't sand, there was a little more wood. If furniture was sanded each time it was stripped it would eventually disappear! Good luck, Buck

[OLSONGO]

I would think that if you use a sander to strip, you aren't going to go crazy with it. I have used a liquid stripper if the paint and finish are very thick, otherwise I use a sander sometimes with 60 or 80 grit, again depending on the wood. Basically you just have to be careful and be patient. I have done many drums and furniture in my time. Some wood is going to go up in the air, but not enough to make a big difference; most drums have a good thickness... and in most cases the refurbish that you do, is hopefully going to be the last one , taking into consideration all of the steps you have to take to have a decent looking drum.
Paz
Olsongo

[RitmoBoricua]

I am with Buckoh use a stripper let it soak-in and do it's thing and then scrape.
Try to keep sanding to a minimum. At least sand to 220, you can go finer than
if you want to but sometimes not really required.Also do not forget to wear chemical
glove, dust mask and even a respirator. Dust and chemicals (stripper, stains, poly, laquer,
shellac etc) are very harmful specially to your lungs. Be careful with them rags specially
if you are working witl oil based stains, varnish, etc they can catch-on fire. Hang them
and spread-them out until they dry, once they are dried you can dispose of them. I tell
you is a good investment to go to the bookstore and buy a book on how to finish and refinish
wood. I got some around the house everything I am going to take on a project I hit the books
for ideas, pointers and too refresh my mind they are not that expensive. Take your time and
be patient.

[sumo]

Wow!

I feel ready to take on any wood refurbishment now!! lol. See how i get on with these.
P
Please have a look at said drums - They are Raul - made by Bauer and say Brin-Plas on the sticker. I have no idea how old they are. Im guessing mid to late nineties????

Thanks again - u guys rock! and im so glad i found this forum its got me excited about drums and playing again.

Peas out

Sumo x

[RitmoBoricua]

Just by looking at the picture it seems like a lot of those scratches and gouges are in the
clear coat finish and not in the wood, good for you. Good looking drums, no doubt they
will look a lot better with a new finish. Ask questions, be safe, patient, and thorough.
Good luck and you can do it .

[sumo]

Just by looking at the picture it seems like a lot of those scratches and gouges are in the
clear coat finish and not in the wood, good for you. Good looking drums, no doubt they
will look a lot better with a new finish. Ask questions, be safe, patient, and thorough.
Good luck and you can do it .

Thanks for the advice Ritmo. If only it was just the clear coat finish! lol You should see the backs!!! A few deep scars that need healing

Take it easy

S

[vinnieL]

After my last experience refinishing I believe stripper is the way to go. Many believe that it also softens the glue but i don't believe this is the case as you will not be leaving the stripper on that long and if you do it just dries up ayway. Please keep us updated on your progress it is always nice to see the transformations.

[Derbeno]

I carefully followed Buckoh's advice and free pm consultancy a few years ago and refinished these Matadors.

[OLSONGO]

Bauers don't really have much of a finish, believe me I have 3 and I having them sprayed with more finish. I wouldn't bother with the stripper ( not much to strip ), I go easy with 100- 120 grit . The gouges... you can make them totally disappear , but that is another technique and a bit more time consuming and its more that just mixing glue with saw dust.
Paz
Olsongo

[vinnieL]

That Matador came out great Derbeno nice work!