Vintage Gon Bops - a new project!

[blango]

Just for fun, and to see if it works, i took the drum outside to the sidewalk...

kicked it to the curb, as it were...

tried Josephs technique with good results... but it is schetchy. Its hard to keep the drum level when scraping it on the cement. but with much stress, the results came out nicely...

I like James' idea about the tile over the drum, I think you would have more control that way.

Bombs, yes i think i might keep the bands. all but the bottom band are functional on this drum, so might as well.. I may change my mind...

I used Tightbond 3 and Gorilla Glue. In your case - crack closed on two sides, id use expanding glue, like Gorilla.

Tony

Attachment: http://mycongaplace.com/forum/eng/uploa ... 3_002t.jpg

[blango]

I am glad i did the pencil and hand rasp before the cement trick, for sure.

Attachment: http://mycongaplace.com/forum/eng/uploa ... 3_004t.jpg

[taikonoatama]

Wow, great work on the bearing edge, Tony! I'm assuming it was as trashed as BnB's drum to start with. Great job.

James

[blango]

Thanks James,

Yea, it was so wavy it made me sea sick!

In all, i took 3/16ths off the top, probably not enough to really notice when played with others of stock height.

Tony

[Joseph]

Have a look at....[url=http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Gon-Bops-of-California-Conga-Drums_W0QQitemZ270209458130QQihZ017QQcategoryZ119017Q
QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem]this pair[/url]


Local pickup Seattle only

[blango]

anyone up for a road trip?

T

[bongosnotbombs]

The alma that was installed on these was kind of a joke, so I'm thinking about getting a flesh ring and installing that as a kind of alma for this drum.

What do you guys think of this idea?

[blango]

a serious set back on the conga....

Used tightbond 3 for the first time on a heel to toe crack.

when sanding, the crack split. it was clean and dry etc. the crack came together fairly tightly( the pic is a very close shot). The glue just failed with the vibration of the sander (a good check for potential problems).

Now im in a situation where Ill have to split it all apart, clean out the glue and reglue it with gluezilla. Ive done it in the past, not that big a deal when its heel to toe - easier to get the crack clean without removing material.

Someone here recommended tightbond, as it won in some contest in a woodworking mag... didnt see the article, i probably should have..

Back to the messy Gorilla glue.

It will be nice in the end, but its more work.

re the alma idea, Ive seen that before on a high end drum out of mexico, but Master maker Matt says he would only put in an alma in if he was putting a band on the outside to support the shell at that point.

Tony



Edited By blango on 1203275962

[blango]

mmm. dont like it much, but if it failed this easily, it should be easy to clean out of there

Attachment: http://mycongaplace.com/forum/eng/uploa ... bong2t.jpg

[Chupacabra]

Wow! Where have I been? I just saw this thread for the first time! Both these drums look like AWESOME projects and I will surely be following this one closely!
Here are a couple of photos of two very valuable tools to have for doing this kind of repair. The sanding plate is made of 3/4" plywood and abrasive strips are cut from the belt of a "Roto-belt" sander used for grinding steel. It's real coarse but it gets the excess sanded down quickly and the surface actually looks pretty smooth IF YOU ONLY USE A ROTATING MOTION. I use a magic marker and run it over the whole bearing edge surface and start sanding for awhile. Turn it back up after about 2 minutes of rotating and you'll quickly see the high and low spots. When all the ink is gone you're ready for the next step. This is a good upper body work out too!
The next one is a nifty little syringe that is excellent for squirting a good quality PVA glue like Titebond 3 into the cracks. It flows through the little orifice nicely and washes easily with water. I love Titebond 3! If the crack goes right through to the inside you keep squirting that stuff in until you start to see it come through. It has to flow all the way in before you clamp it.
Keep us posted!

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[Chupacabra]

Here's the sanding board...

Attachment: http://mycongaplace.com/forum/eng/uploa ... G_0006.JPG

[buckoh]

I've been gone all weekend and just looked at the posts. The glue in the crack can be softened by white vinegar. Put paper towels on top of the crack and keep putting vinegar on the towels to keep them moist and after a few hours the glue will be real easy to scrape out. There is a product called DeGooGlue or something similar, that is vinegar in gel form. It stays put and dissolves the glue. Good luck, Buck

[blango]

Cool one Buck!

I wonder if it effects the new glue going in?

Thanks,

Tony

[buckoh]

I'd neutralize it with water and maybe some baking soda & water, then rinse with clear water. The De-Glue-Goo (http://www.de-gluegoo.com) says to let the wood dry thoroughly. Its from the Kale Co. 962 Linden Ave, Buena Vista, Ca. 24416
I'll bet just white vinegar and some gelatin would do it. I attended a lecture on how to make gels by Don Williams of the Smithsonian but, I don't remember much. All you need is something to keep the vinegar wet while it works. It won't hurt anything else. Just keep scraping away the sludge. It works on water based glues,i.e.; hide glue, white, brown or yellow aliphatic resin glues. It won't touch epoxy. Good luck, Buck

[ChanChanChan]

Do you have any pictures of the shell be clamped? I 'm working on repairing a gonbop with a slight crack and was wondering about this.