THE LP MATADOR CONGA (OLD SCHOOL STYLE)

[Derbeno]

Your local Guitar center can order for you.

Make sure you get the right diameter of you lugs, the beauty of these is that they simple and securely clip on, no need to undo the lugs to fit them in between the washers.

CONGA-SAVER8 Conga Saver for 8 mm Lugs (set of 6 pcs.)

CONGA-SAVER10 Conga Saver for 10 mm Lugs (set of 6 pcs.)

They are listed at $18 in the 2008 Meinl Catalogue

If there is no GC near you then try:
MEINL USA L.C.
3300 Ambrose Avenue – Nashville, TN 37207 – USA
Toll Free: (877) 88 MEINL – Phone: (615) 227 5090 – E-Mail: info@meinlusa.com

[Derbeno]

Hey Charlie,

I have since done a Conga to complete the set. I have sessions with Yosvany as much as I can, one the of the first things he advised me to do is to use a Conga/Tumba combination.
He was right it is much easier on my large hands to use a conga. For three drums he still recommends a Conga/Conga/Tumba combo tuned appropriately.
Did you see any of the stuff he did with David la-Mole during Davids recent visit to SD? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0GOINyEH ... re=related

I followed the advice of Bucko, an expert woodworker on the site, as there was lots of debate if a paint stripper will damage the glue. Glad to report it did not:
"Derbeno, use a good stripper with methelyne chloride in it. Do it OUTSIDE to avoid fumes. Sanding should always be the last resort for stripping. If you do sand, use a random orbit sander with a vacuum hose connected to the vacuum cleaner/dust collector. Otherwise you'll get small spirals that will show up when you put the finish on. Use grit around 200-220 and final hand sand with 220 going with the grain always. One responder mentioned an oil finish. I assume he meant a danish oil finish. It is easy to touch up. Just add some of the oil and hand sand with the grain with 200-240 wet or dry sandpaper. Some of the sanding sponges work well. They are about 5X5 inches and 2 sided. The sanding will work up a mix of oil & sawdust. Follow the directions and this will allow the mix to go into the scratches and build it a little. It really is foolproof. You get a nice soft looking satin that is easy to touch up. You're going for ease of mantainence, not durability. You can also coat with many other types of finishes later if you want depth and build. Watco Danish Oil finish is a good one. Also, Geo. Maloof, a famous chair builder, sells his own mix. I haven't used it, so I can't offer an opinion. Also, Waterlox makes a nice wipe on oil that is beautiful . A friend of mine who has been in Fine Woodworking 3 times, with 5 pages the last time, uses it on pieces that go for 10,000.00 and more. Its basically the same as the others. Remember to never pile the used rags up. They will spontaneously combust and burn your shop down! Good luck. Buck"

Here is the entire thread: viewtopic.php?f=14&t=3132

[SalseroBoricua71]

*

[RitmoBoricua]

I followed the advice of Bucko, an expert woodworker on the site, as there was lots of debate if a paint stripper will damage the glue. Glad to report it did not:
"Derbeno, use a good stripper with methelyne chloride in it. Do it OUTSIDE to avoid fumes. Sanding should always be the last resort for stripping. If you do sand, use a random orbit sander with a vacuum hose connected to the vacuum cleaner/dust collector. Otherwise you'll get small spirals that will show up when you put the finish on. Use grit around 200-220 and final hand sand with 220 going with the grain always. One responder mentioned an oil finish. I assume he meant a danish oil finish. It is easy to touch up. Just add some of the oil and hand sand with the grain with 200-240 wet or dry sandpaper. Some of the sanding sponges work well. They are about 5X5 inches and 2 sided. The sanding will work up a mix of oil & sawdust. Follow the directions and this will allow the mix to go into the scratches and build it a little. It really is foolproof. You get a nice soft looking satin that is easy to touch up. You're going for ease of mantainence, not durability. You can also coat with many other types of finishes later if you want depth and build. Watco Danish Oil finish is a good one. Also, Geo. Maloof, a famous chair builder, sells his own mix. I haven't used it, so I can't offer an opinion. Also, Waterlox makes a nice wipe on oil that is beautiful . A friend of mine who has been in Fine Woodworking 3 times, with 5 pages the last time, uses it on pieces that go for 10,000.00 and more. Its basically the same as the others. Remember to never pile the used rags up. They will spontaneously combust and burn your shop down! Good luck. Buck"

Here is the entire thread: viewtopic.php?f=14&t=3132[/quote]

Very Good Advice. When you are refinishing always strip and keep sanding to a minimum specially with old pieces, you do no want to cut into the patina. Watco Danish Oil is a good choice but according to what I know is not an oil 100 percent is more like a varnish/oil blend. The problem with Watco and other oil finishes like Boiled Linseed OIl and Tung Oil is that they will not offer a lot of protection and if you want a protective top coat most likely you have to use oil poly. Normally oil finishes are penetrating and it will take a lot of coats and time to build-up a finish with oil and probably be a tacky finish. I think with bongos you kind of can get away with just a penetrating oil finish, but not congas they seem to get more dings. Oil finishes with no other top coat are very attractive but they are better suited for pieces that are not going to received a lot of abuse, since the wood will be directly receiving every scratch, gouge, ding etc. No doubt you can use an oil finish in your congas but for maximum protection you will always need a tougher top coat like poly and if possible gloss since is harder than the semigloss or satin. I have been refinishing some of my drums all summer long and I really have been buying books and doing lot of reading on finishing wood. You got to take your time, and don't rush. There are countless products for finishing wood but you need to know what is compatible with what and be careful with them rags after you use oil stain, varnish etc they are very flammable. What I do is lay them flat inside my BBQ grill overnite with all the vents close just in case, when the rags are hard and stiffed you can dispose of them:)

[yambu321]

MIKE, AND STEVEN.

THANKS, FOR QUEING IN, AND GIVING ME THIS IMPORTANT INFORMATION.
I WILL SURELY SEE IF I CAN ORDER THE CONGA SAVERS.

THANKS AGAIN!
CHARLIE.

[yambu321]

DERBENO, THANK YOU FOR THE WONDERFUL POST/ INFO/ AND VIDEO!

YOU'RE THE MAN!

CHARLIE.

[SalseroBoricua71]

*

[Joseph]

Hey Derbeno

How thick a mule did you put on your "Stripped, refurbished and mule skinned" Matador?

I'm asking because I have a similar Gon Bops made Philippine Mahogany shell and a question came up over at Conga Makeover Thread, as to it's ability to handle tension required for mule skin.

Happy with it?

Thanks
~Joseph

[Derbeno]

Joseph, I am out of town for a few weeks so I can't measure it for you right now.

I will remember to do so soon as I get home but from memory I would say that it is thicker than the original LP head. The Tumba is less thick, probably as thick as what LP mounts on a Quinto/Conga. (I do have a set of vernier calipers; as I have never measured these skins before, I am now also interested in the measurements now that you've mentioned it)

I am definitely most pleased with the result, in fact I get more than a few compliments on the sound, but after a week last year with JC and regular sessions with Josvany Cortes I think in my head "Hey, what about the pilot???". But I politely reply "Thanks and yea, great mule skins"

[yambu321]

THE PILOT!
DERBENO, IN AN EXCELLENT ONE AT THAT. KEEP PLAYING THOSE DRUMS, LIKE YOU ARE FLYING THEM, BROTHER!

CHARLIE.

[yambu321]

A PHOTO OF MY RUMBA TESTED DRUM.


PLEASE CLICK ON PHOTO, FOR A CLOSER LOOK.

CHARLIE.

[yambu321]

PLEASE CLICK ON PHOTO FOR A CLOSER LOOK.

CHARLIE.

[yambu321]

ANOTHER SHOT.

PLEASE CLICK ON PHOTO FOR AN IN CLOSE VIEW OF IT'S BATTLE SCARS.

CHARLIE.

[yambu321]

AND NOW A PHOTO OF THE PAIR.
I AM ALSO WORKING ON THE THIRD DRUM OF THE TREO.

CHARLIE.


TO ENLARGE, CLICK ON PHOTO, THANKS.

[vinnieL]

Yambu321 that looks beautiful bro! great work