Posted:
Mon Jul 02, 2007 4:57 pmby taikonoatama
Some good info here that you can't find on the label.
http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/gorilaglurevu.html
http://www.mouseprint.org/?p=111
I'm not convinced it's any stronger than a good 2-part epoxy, and shouldn't be used to fill gaps, but I think the expanding/capillary action helps it get deeper into thinner cracks than an epoxy might.
~Taiko
Note: Gorilla glue is a bit messy and tends to not wipe off easily when wet and mar the existing finish on a drum when it dries, so be very careful or maybe use a different glue or something. The problem is that with clamps, ropes, netting, etc., it's nearly impossible to remove the excess glue whatever type you use.
Edited By taikonoatama on 1183476832
Posted:
Mon Jul 02, 2007 7:46 pmby Tonio
Good reads Taiko.
I bought some Gorilla glue and my usual wood epoxy, to repair some minor cracks on my Fuji Tine quinto.
After reading the instructions for the Gorilla glue, I was concerned about the foaming characteristics. Since I never used the product before, I used a couple pcs of wood for testing. Getting the wood moist is a interesting thing, and probably would help in getting into the split/cracks.
I'll try some more testing before any major projectscome up.
T
Posted:
Wed Jul 04, 2007 7:01 pmby Whopbamboom
The current issue of "Fine Woodworking" magazine (August 2007) has an article on glues. It's a strength-test article, comparing the strengths of various glues in various joints. They did it in a lab-test manner, very scientific. And it included three different tolerances on the joints as well as several types of woods being glued.
I don't think Gorilla Glue did very well.
There were much stronger glues.
See if you can find a copy while it's still on the news stands!
Edited By Whopbamboom on 1184628688
Posted:
Mon Jul 16, 2007 11:31 pmby Whopbamboom
I wound up picking up a copy of the magazine issue that I was talking about (it's the August 2007 issue of Fine Woodworking, not the July issue). I'll edit my above post to reflect that correction.
Gorilla Glue ranked on the bottom!
What the article actually did, (and I'm guessing so as to avoid a lawsuit or to anger their advertisers), is to state the types of glues that were being tested, and to give "examples" of commercially available glues that fall in each category. I.e., they tell you that Gorilla Glue is a polyurethane glue, and when you look at the chart of test results, you can see that polyurethane glue (Gorilla) averaged only 58% of the holding strength of Type I waterproof PVA glue (an example of this is Titebond III).
They tested tight, snug, and loose joints, as well as maple, oak, and ipe woods.
The glues that were tested were type I PVA, slow-set epoxy, PVA, liquid hide, hot hide, and polyurethane (and they finished in that order).
The brands that fell in those categories were Titebond III, System 3 T-88, Elmer's Carpenter's Glue, Old Brown Glue, J.E. Moser's Ground Hide Glue, and Gorilla (listed here in the same order as I listed the glue types).
To anyone thinking of building or repairing drums, I suggest you get a copy of August 2007 Fine Woodworking magazine while you can, so you can see the actual results of the tests they performed a total of 162 joints tested, with the averages of the force needed to break the glue joints shown in a chart).
Posted:
Tue Jul 17, 2007 12:00 amby bongosnotbombs
Brilliant, thanks Whop! I remember back when I
was painting house the carpenters were starting
to use Gorilla glue for all kinds of stuff! Man it was messy,
they always used to much, and had to remove it, and it always messed up our finishes.
That stuff is about as subtle as a Gorilla! There has got to be much better glues than that, and with todays woodworking biscuits and pegs, joints are stronger than ever.