meinl Marathon series

[blavonski]

Hello,
I'm new here and have already found some very helpful tips concerning all things bongo.
I've been playing ( a freinds Meinl Headliner series) for about six months and decided to get my own pair. But, I didn't really like the compfort rims on the Hdliners for a number of reasons, but I like wood block and being able to adjust the rims.
At any rate, I recently purchased a set of Meinl Marathon Series, (I'll try to load a foto asap if neccessary), from E-Bay for 24,00 €.
Could someone please give me any info and or personal opinions regarding this series of Meinl Bongo e.g. Years they were made; Playing level; what type of (original)skin it may have? (The skin is thinner than the ones on my friends HDLiner series and it's clear in some parts and whiteish in others.)

The seller on e-bay replied to my question regarding the condition, that there were'n and damadges as far as he knew. I received them and the hembra had two cracks one about 2,5 In. and the other almost all the way from top to bottom at the stave holes. Other than that they are in very good condition; They don't appear to have been played very often at all.
So, I opened the larger crack all the way, glued it; strapped it and it's setting up as i write and, I suppose, I'll have to resort to the cyrindge method that some one mentioned here someplace for the small crack. Unless there's another method besides splitting it all the way and glueing it like the first one.? Also, someone here mentioned that when a shell cracks it shrinks some in size. That may very well explain the uneveness with the space between the wood and the bottom rim. It's nothing severe, but I noticed hat it wasn't as snug as the Macho rim.

I'll leave it at that for now and thanks a bunch for this site and any replys that i receive.

[Anonimo]

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[blavonski]

Thanks Leedy 2 for your reply!

As I mentioned in my first post, there were two cracks in the hembra. I repaired the longer one, but am uncertain about how to repair the shorter one. Should I plitit all the way and glue back together like I did the other? Also, what can you tell me about the skins? I've uploaded a couple of Fotos: The shorter crack is to the right of the crack that I repaired. I've just cleaned it up superficially at this point. I welcom any suggestions you may have! Thanks again for sharing!

[Anonimo]

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[OLSONGO]

Apply some tite bond wood glue in the crack and tighten with some large hose clamps ,that should do it . Goat is fine depending from where the goat skin is from , stay away from Indian or Pakistany goat skin, I prefer Calf or horse skin , just a bit thicker..goat rips to easy .
Peace
Olsongo

[Psych1]

Don't split. Just work as much wood glue into crack as you can with finger, clamp with hose clamps, wipe away excess, wait a day and reassemble. Keep center block tight - the loose block, or overtightening, caused the cracks. Watch recommended youtube videos, listen to recommended music, find group to play with, practice-practice-practice. Upgrade skins in 3 to 5 years. If you get hooked, as many here are, buy new bongos in 10 years. Keep these. If you like the new ones better, put these on display but still play them once in a while. Put them in your will or give to promising student. Welcome. Keep reading through old threads.

[blavonski]

Don't split. Just work as much wood glue into crack as you can with finger, clamp with hose clamps, wipe away excess, wait a day and reassemble. Keep center block tight - the loose block, or overtightening, caused the cracks. Watch recommended youtube videos, listen to recommended music, find group to play with, practice-practice-practice. Upgrade skins in 3 to 5 years. If you get hooked, as many here are, buy new bongos in 10 years. Keep these. If you like the new ones better, put these on display but still play them once in a while. Put them in your will or give to promising student. Welcome. Keep reading through old threads.

Thanks for all replies!
I agree that simply filling the crack with glue and clamping is best at this point. I split the long crack 'caus it was practically through anyway; but, there's no telling how the other one would tear. And concerning the block: due to the cracks in this area, is it neccessary to install steel backing plates to disperse the bolt pressure more evenly?
I noticed that the Headliner series have such a plate.
Also, I assume the heads are Buffalo skin, but not sure, and pretty dry. What's the geral opinion concerning oiling skins, would it be neccessary for these before I play them?

To psych1: I noticed you showed a Marathon set in an older post, but the hardware on mine is black finish. Can you tell me around what year these may have been produced?

Thanks again!

[Anonimo]

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[Psych1]

blavonski
mine are older. German oak. I bought them used in a music store in Germany in 1981. Great bongos. I played them a lot. Now not so often. When the right student comes along they are ready to go.

[blavonski]

Hello,
i have finished the repairing of the second crack and it went rather well I think. In order to open the crack to get the glue in, I inserted the macho shell as a spanner and it worked greatly. I think that I will fabricate two plates for the connection... as Murphy's law reminds us that, if it can happen, it will happen.

Also,regarding your reply's to the reasons for cracks, (either too loose or too tight), I was wondering if the the gap, between the bottom rim and the shell is the main culprit here? The good thing is that, the profile of the rim is flush with that of the shell. However, with that in mind and as the german saying goes: Trust is good, but control is better; I was thinking that inserting a spacer between the rim and the wood wouldn't be a bad idea in reducing the chances of the shell flexing at that point.
Any thoughts on that??

On a more personal note: I play alto sax, flute and a little drums and since I was so takin' by the Bongo, ( I've been practicing 2-3 hours a day since I first laid my hands on them much to the chagrin of my horns, but I need that rythm) and because she's leaving the country for a while and lost intrest in them any way, my friend said that I could have her Headliner Series that i mentioned earlier... But, I think that I'll enjoy these Marathons much more when I get them ready to play. Also, Fidelseyeglasses Blog is a treasure box of Cuban musik that is outside of the beaten path. It's good thing my los Compadre & La Sonora Mantacera among some other's music isn't an LP or it would toast by now. But my knowledge of that music is limited and I#m greatful for that blog to get some other sounds.

Til next time, thanks again!!

[Anonimo]

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[blavonski]

Well Folks,
i'm finished with the reapair and have finally played the Marathons. And, thanks Leedy! You wrote earlier that, the Marathon's were a step up from the Headliner Series; I could'nt agree more, and would preface the step with Big, beacause there are a number of charastics to these Bongos, ( the sound, the skins, the Hoops, Tuning lugs) that make a big step up for me with the instrument.

As you can see in the photo, I did add a plate. I bought a steel construction framing tie strap from the local hardware store, (the holes for the bolts were the perfect distance apart), and cut it in half. I had to buy two longer bolts to accomodate the plate thickness, and I also added two lock washers for good measure. It's sittin' tight now!

Finally, I had a question regarding detuning. How much should I detune the heads after playing? Down to finger tight or...?

Thanks!

[Mike]

Hey Blavonski,

Nice bongó, but be very careful, you should [b]bend the backing plates into shape[/b] by all means,
otherwise you risk complete shell destruction !!!
I know it´s some work, but they should really sit snugly inside the shell, then you can really tighten
the bolts.
This is how I did it with the self-made plate on my Raúl bongó:

BTW welcome to this forum!

[blavonski]

Hello Mike,

I here what your saying. I chose the wider strap because, I didn't think it was a good idea to have the plate exactly pressed against the Large crack going throught the holes. As it sits now, the edges of plate are quite perpendicular to the Block edges; and as I understand it, or like to believe, the compression from tightening is happening at these points on both shells against the block. Therefore, theoretically speaking, the shell as no displaced tension to give it a reason to flex within the 1mm space between it and the plate, unless of course the plate was wider than the Block.

If the block concave was not as uniform and even as it is, with lets say a hump someplace in it, then that would create some tension in that small area where the wood can move if it had to. It would be alright, I guess if the plate flexed, but it's 3mm steel and doubt that will happen. It's very tight now with the lock washers and I listened very carefully as I tightened for any movement and I heard nothing. But, who knows? Have you had experience with this particular issue before?
I hope it works! If not, I guess I'll have to purchase a pair Timba's, Ha, Ha!

Thanks for your imput!

[Mike]

I do not quite understand what you wrote. Let me put it this way: Maybe the wood can take it, but I would still bend the plate into shape carefully with a hammer before reassembling the drum. It will not be a problem for the glued cracks then, they should hold firmly if properly repaired.
If I had not bent the self-made backing plates with my delicate Gon Bops mahogany conga shells, e.g., there would have been
dents and cracks for sure.
OK, the compression might not be as strong with bongó, but I still wonder why you want to expose your Meinl
unnecessarily to a risk
BTW any serious manufacturer of quality bongos supplies a very snugly-seating curved plate or at least oversized washers that are bent.