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Wanted to share the first set of Bongos I've built! I'm so happy with them. I use flamed box elder for the wood, and custom made the stainless hardware. I sandblasted the hardware for a nice matte finish that I think works really well with this wood. I learned a lot building these. I have seen bongos as a 'cheap toy' drum in the past. Somehow I always skipped over them and never really even played one. Well, I have a new love for the bongos now and wish I didn't have to part with these.

I hand cut all the hardware here - in the future I will get the shapes laser cut for better accuracy and consistency. I also want to use 1/8" stainless, this is holding up fine - but it's a bit under 1/8". The crown hoop and bottom hoop, I'd like to make 5/8" next go around - they are .5" here. It will make them a bit heavier - but I think they will be just a touch more sturdy, and easier for me to weld. That thinner stainless is not easy to weld clean! I also want to spread out the ears a bit more.

Enjoy! I've got enough of this wood to build a few more sets of bongos. If you're interested in a set like this let me know - I need a reason to make some new hardware!

KevBo,

Happy New Year! Nice looking bongo, good job.
That box elder is a maple species, isn't? It has
a very unique grain figure. The only thing I see
is that the heads are like mounted at least 1/4"
too low. Normally on bongos and congas you want
to mount heads to where the top of the rim is like
1/4" below the bearing edge. The reasoning is that
over time heads naturally stretch with tuning and
come down a bit. IMHO I think that black hardware
will make that box elder figure pop even more but
that is just my preference. I think as long you don't
go with heads took thick the hardware gauge is good.
How it sounds? What are the heads size? Mule, goat,
calf heads??? Hopefully you will keep them in
production. I have seen you djembes and you work
is outstanding, specially the ones made out of walnut
a thing of beauty. What about a walnut bongo?

I appreciate your feedback. It is a maple species. The flame look is actually a form of spalting - or fungus. I have to cut up the board pretty carefully because the red (flame) is scattered. I completely agree with the hoop being too low. Next time I will make my ears a bit longer and also wider on the crown hoop. You can see that I'm just at the edge of the nut with the hooks. I made it work, and I've still got a good half inch on each skin to tune before it hits the middle block - so I think I'm good. But yes, I want them higher next time.

I'm partial to working with raw materials. I don't like painting wood or metals. I like seeing the raw work - to me it shows quality and craftsmanship, paint covers up imperfections. I do feel like colored hardware would be cool, but the stainless is so beautiful on it's own.

I've got steer on the hembra and thin mule on the macho - thanks to Manito!

Other woods are coming eventually. I've got lots of nice walnut, maple, ash, and some Khaya (African Mahogany) I've been really wanting to break into.

No problem, KevBo.

Great job indeed, the ears are fine as they are, I have seen them too long on some bongos.So it is better to keep them in a way that they are just long enough so the lug have room to fit in. For the crowns and bottom hoops a 3/16" thickness will be better to stand tension Imho.

Thanks Caballoballo.

I think 3/16 steel would be fine, but maybe overkill for stainless as it has about 1.5 times the strength as steel. I used .080 stainless on these and only noticed a slight bend on the crown hoop. I think with a wider (5/8 instead of the 1/2) rim, and the 1/8 stainless I'll be covered for lots of tension! But - I will find out soon enough and may find you to be right.

I also made the rings too tight to the shell - it was a struggle to head. The next set will have slightly larger crown hoop.

Thanks again! I very much welcome feedback. It will only make me better!

Good way of thinking Kevbo. And yes you need enough room on the crowns to fit the skins specially if a thick one is needed for the Hembra.

As an interior designer and decorator which objectively looking aesthetic, I will suggest to make longer lugs and that will lift crown ring closer to bearing edges. Other way, perfect work. Bravo.

KevBo wrote:Thanks Caballoballo.
I think 3/16 steel would be fine, but maybe overkill for stainless as it has about 1.5 times the strength as steel. I used .080 stainless on these and only noticed a slight bend on the crown hoop. I think with a wider (5/8 instead of the 1/2) rim, and the 1/8 stainless I'll be covered for lots of tension! But - I will find out soon enough and may find you to be right.
I also made the rings too tight to the shell - it was a struggle to head. The next set will have slightly larger crown hoop.
Thanks again! I very much welcome feedback. It will only make me better!

I suggest going thicker rather than wider on the rim, any additional width will put the flesh hoop even lower. The width you have looks about right. You want the flesh hoop as high as possible while keeping the top edge of the rim low enough to not hit your hands on it. If the top of the rim is too high, you will hit your hands on it, if it is too low, the skin will be closer to a 90 degree angle at the bearing edge and will require a lot more lug tension to get the same pitch. You have the rim way too low, it should only get that low after you have been playing the skins for many years. And don't underestimate the very high forces on the rim when you tune the macho up high.
That wood sure is pretty, being maple, is it real hard?

PS I just measured the rim thickness and width on my bongos using a caliper. The SOS bongo rim is 0.2" thick and 0.5" wide. The 1973 LP bongo rim is 0.2" thick and 0.6" wide. Both are chromed steel and have held up for many years without bending.