Posted: Sat Jul 15, 2006 5:08 pmi saw some guy the other day using regular drumsticks to play timbales (as opposed to using timbal sticks). is it common these days to use tapered drumsticks instead of traditional timbal sticks?
congaplace.com
The World of Percussions
http://www.mycongaplace.com/forum/eng/
sticks
http://www.mycongaplace.com/forum/eng/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3735
Page 1 of 2
Posted: Sat Jul 15, 2006 5:08 pmPosted: Tue Jul 18, 2006 10:01 pmI don't think that is very common. I am basing that on every timbale player I have seen live always used timbale sticks. I am sure that you can play with a drumset style stick if you have a multi-drum/percussion set up but if you have a choice I play timbales with a timbale stick
Posted: Wed Jul 19, 2006 2:22 amModern timba style drummers which incorporate the timbal to the side as part of their drum kit (within timba/songo/masacote style music) will normally use drumsticks for greater volume as also lots of drum kit is involved in thier playing.
Our drummer/timbalero uses drumsticks and plays in the format you see Jimmy Branly with NG and Samuel Formell with Van Van in the old Chuck Silverman video 'Drumset Artists of Cuba'.
At times he reverses the stick and strikes the skins/cascara/bells etc with the other end ie the tapered end being held.
But in the end, whatever works for you and feels comfortable.
Our drummer/timbalero uses drumsticks and plays in the format you see Jimmy Branly with NG and Samuel Formell with Van Van in the old Chuck Silverman video 'Drumset Artists of Cuba'.
At times he reverses the stick and strikes the skins/cascara/bells etc with the other end ie the tapered end being held.
But in the end, whatever works for you and feels comfortable.
Posted: Fri Oct 13, 2006 8:18 amHey guys, i play drum kit/timbales/congas/bongo and tres cubano. When i play drum kit i use timale sticks and when i play timbales i use timbal sticks. My usual setup with my currant band is a full drum kit with timbales on the side like samuel formell from van van. It works really well for me, especially in breakdowns. Dom
Posted: Fri Oct 13, 2006 8:09 pmFor those that need Timbales sticks just go to your local hardware store and pick out wooden "dowls" and cut your own..it's a lot cheaper than buying in the box...it's the way we "ol skoolers' do it...."JC" Johnny Conga... 
Posted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 10:30 amlol nice one JC. i personly like the red VIC FIRTH timbale sticks for all styles of latin music but when extra volume is needed i like the purple VIC FIRTH sticks. also the Zildjian marc q salsa sticks are nice.
Posted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 12:06 amanother thing to keep in mind is application.
Cuban drummers usually use drumsticks because they need to do hi hat and ride work, which may require light touch or more "pingy" definition. Hence, they'll use regular drumsticks (such as 5As, etc.) because they need to able to define their playing on cymbals, etc.
Timbaleros don't usually do a lot of "fine" ridework. Ocassionally, if a song calls for it, they may have to do a few bars of standard "jazz" riding, but for the most part, they'll be hitting cymbals for a blaring riding during Mambo sections (not "ride), or explosive break accentuation. The Timbale sticks thicker "ends" are more useful for sturdier and louder playing of jam blocks, cowbells, and more consistent/louder "abanicos" (break rolls common in Latin music).
Examine your playing needs. If you're playing in salsa/latin jazz applications exclusively, and doing mostly cowbell/jamblock/shell/timbale drum work, go with timbale sticks. If you're work requires a lot of versatility within songs, and a light touch at certain times, get 5A or 7As, and get used to switching to the thick end of the stick to play timbales in the sections that require it. Should you need more of a rock edge, consider getting sticks with nylon tips. Stick to wood tip for lighter jazz applications.
Hope that helps gauge what sticks you need.
Cuban drummers usually use drumsticks because they need to do hi hat and ride work, which may require light touch or more "pingy" definition. Hence, they'll use regular drumsticks (such as 5As, etc.) because they need to able to define their playing on cymbals, etc.
Timbaleros don't usually do a lot of "fine" ridework. Ocassionally, if a song calls for it, they may have to do a few bars of standard "jazz" riding, but for the most part, they'll be hitting cymbals for a blaring riding during Mambo sections (not "ride), or explosive break accentuation. The Timbale sticks thicker "ends" are more useful for sturdier and louder playing of jam blocks, cowbells, and more consistent/louder "abanicos" (break rolls common in Latin music).
Examine your playing needs. If you're playing in salsa/latin jazz applications exclusively, and doing mostly cowbell/jamblock/shell/timbale drum work, go with timbale sticks. If you're work requires a lot of versatility within songs, and a light touch at certain times, get 5A or 7As, and get used to switching to the thick end of the stick to play timbales in the sections that require it. Should you need more of a rock edge, consider getting sticks with nylon tips. Stick to wood tip for lighter jazz applications.
Hope that helps gauge what sticks you need.
Posted: Wed Jan 23, 2008 3:24 pmHi, I need some ideas and suggestions concerning timbal sticks:
Most timbal sticks today are too long, too heavy - and too expensive for me! I am looking for sticks of 7/16" (11 mm) diameter and 15" (38,2 cm) length. Also, I don't like wood that is as heavy as hickory.
I remember in the seventies and eighties, LP was offering timbal sticks specified only as "Wood Timbale Sticks", as opposed to their "Unbreakable" and "Genuine Hickory" models. Today, Meinl is offering sticks of that same material, but the 7/16 model is missing in their line.
My questions are:
1. Of what kind of wood are these old LP and new Meinl sticks?
2. Does anybody have any suggestions on how and where to get the sticks I am looking for?
3. Does anybody know who can fabricate a quantity of about 50-100 sticks for me, if nothing else works out?
JC: I have tried selfmade wooden dowels like you proposed, but felt that they don't have the right rebound properties and wear off too easily.
Thomas
Most timbal sticks today are too long, too heavy - and too expensive for me! I am looking for sticks of 7/16" (11 mm) diameter and 15" (38,2 cm) length. Also, I don't like wood that is as heavy as hickory.
I remember in the seventies and eighties, LP was offering timbal sticks specified only as "Wood Timbale Sticks", as opposed to their "Unbreakable" and "Genuine Hickory" models. Today, Meinl is offering sticks of that same material, but the 7/16 model is missing in their line.
My questions are:
1. Of what kind of wood are these old LP and new Meinl sticks?
2. Does anybody have any suggestions on how and where to get the sticks I am looking for?
3. Does anybody know who can fabricate a quantity of about 50-100 sticks for me, if nothing else works out?
JC: I have tried selfmade wooden dowels like you proposed, but felt that they don't have the right rebound properties and wear off too easily.
Thomas
Posted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 4:25 pmLooking for something produced out there for timbales that is not hickory is hard...Most companies make timbales stick out of hickory.
I found one...a Vater timbale that you have the option to get in hickory or maple. (Know maple is lighter). Also, kind of fits the sizes you are looking for although is a little big longer...Here is the link..check the model in the middle...)
http://www.vater.com/newproducts/timbale.cfm.
A good stick that I've found that is almost in your size, however, is still made of hickory and is not as heavy as other hickory sticks, is Pro-Mark Mambo sticks....I've changed from the Zildjian Marc Quinones, too expensive, to these sticks and they have worked. By the way, I know one Vater endorsers, Robert Vilera and he can't say enough about Vater sticks .....So that's a plus for Vater. (Vaters are hard to get here in PR).
They aren't that great sticks in the sizes, or close of what you are lookin for, in timbales....The most popular are the Vic Firth's Alex Acuna Palo series, Pro-Mark Mambo, the Vater's I mentioned and the Zildjian Marc Quinones...The other ones are too short in length or too thin for my likings...
I hope this helps...
Saludos!
Edited By Raymond on 1201278729
I found one...a Vater timbale that you have the option to get in hickory or maple. (Know maple is lighter). Also, kind of fits the sizes you are looking for although is a little big longer...Here is the link..check the model in the middle...)
http://www.vater.com/newproducts/timbale.cfm.
A good stick that I've found that is almost in your size, however, is still made of hickory and is not as heavy as other hickory sticks, is Pro-Mark Mambo sticks....I've changed from the Zildjian Marc Quinones, too expensive, to these sticks and they have worked. By the way, I know one Vater endorsers, Robert Vilera and he can't say enough about Vater sticks .....So that's a plus for Vater. (Vaters are hard to get here in PR).
They aren't that great sticks in the sizes, or close of what you are lookin for, in timbales....The most popular are the Vic Firth's Alex Acuna Palo series, Pro-Mark Mambo, the Vater's I mentioned and the Zildjian Marc Quinones...The other ones are too short in length or too thin for my likings...
I hope this helps...
Saludos!
Edited By Raymond on 1201278729
Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2008 12:07 amThank you very much for your input Raymond,
I think I will check these sticks out; perhaps I shorten them for one inch.
I play Vater 5A "Manhattan", "Super Jazz", and "Session" sticks on the drum set. I like them.
Thomas
I think I will check these sticks out; perhaps I shorten them for one inch.
I play Vater 5A "Manhattan", "Super Jazz", and "Session" sticks on the drum set. I like them.
Thomas
Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2008 2:46 pmThomas,
I also used to play an older LP stick model, very light wood, but I don´t know the wood type, sorry.
These days I also prefer the hickory models like in Vic Firth's Alex Acuna Palo series.
I also used to play an older LP stick model, very light wood, but I don´t know the wood type, sorry.
These days I also prefer the hickory models like in Vic Firth's Alex Acuna Palo series.
Posted: Sun Jan 27, 2008 4:48 pmRaymond wrote:I found one...a Vater timbale that you have the option to get in hickory or maple. (Know maple is lighter). Also, kind of fits the sizes you are looking for although is a little big longer...Here is the link..check the model in the middle...)
http://www.vater.com/newproducts/timbale.cfm.
I have a pair of these sticks, in maple. I use them for palitos on my guagua..
They are nice and light, give me a good sound, and I also got them because I wanted a shorter stick.
These sticks are strong to, I hit them on a lot of things and they don't dent easily at all, like some of the cheaper drumsticks.
I think they are very good for what I use them for, I don't play timbales though.
Edited By bongosnotbombs on 1201500604
Posted: Sun Jan 27, 2008 9:46 pmThese sticks are strong to, I hit them on a lot of things and they don't easily at all, like some of the cheaper drumsticks.
That's good to hear. At one time I was playing Vic Firth's maple "Swinger" drum stick (on the kit), and where hickory sticks wore off in splinters, the maple stick just burst in two halves.
It may sound as if I were a real slammer on the drums, but the contrary is true. Perhaps I have to learn a better rim shot technique. I admit that there are emotional moments where I play those abanicos the way I hear them as a listener - not really controlled, so to say. It's clearly the rim shots that cause sticks to break.
Thomas
Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2008 7:17 amAt one time I was playing Vic Firth's maple "Swinger" drum stick (on the kit), and where hickory sticks wore off in splinters, the maple stick just burst in two halves.
As you mention that, Thomas, it´s funny, I had the opposite experience: I once bought a pair of Vater hickory timbales sticks, and after a very short time of playing they splintered into two halves in the middle of a gig! But then, perhaps I just caught a bad stick..
And yes, it must be maple the LP Tito Puente timbale stick is made of. It has the advantage that some long splinters can be taken away. So you don´t have to throw it into the bin. I taped the grip area to prevent any hand damage, so I can still play it even if it is pretty worn off.
By the way, to me the purple El Palo stick by Vic Firth is very good for both Timbales and (Latin) drumset.
Best wishes
Mike
Edited By Mike on 1201505434
Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2008 11:42 amThanks, Mike.
I used to tape my timbale sticks on the top part, especially the thinner models, about a third or half of the stick length. I liked the sound and the rebound. I'm afraid that a timbale stick that is taped where you hold it will have dead physics.
I just bought a pair of old Slinger-Leedy timbales (must be 1956-65 vintage). I'll pick them up from the customs office today. They come with the traditionally wrapped-over-the-rim calf skin heads. If I find the right stick, I'll certainly pick up practice again.
Gruss,
Thomas
I used to tape my timbale sticks on the top part, especially the thinner models, about a third or half of the stick length. I liked the sound and the rebound. I'm afraid that a timbale stick that is taped where you hold it will have dead physics.
I just bought a pair of old Slinger-Leedy timbales (must be 1956-65 vintage). I'll pick them up from the customs office today. They come with the traditionally wrapped-over-the-rim calf skin heads. If I find the right stick, I'll certainly pick up practice again.
Gruss,
Thomas