congaplace.com

Posted: **Thu May 11, 2006 10:56 pm**

This is a question for the elders here, or those who like to experiment with their musical instruments.

Is it possible to strip the finish on a wood conga without damaging the gule that holds the staves together?

I have been thinking about buying a used set of LP Classics and refinishing them to my own liking. It can make a nice project for the summer.

Thank you.

Posted: **Thu May 11, 2006 11:28 pm**

Yes, the glue is between the staves. Also after sanding and putting the stain, paint, fabric or what ever. The last finish should be a thick coat of two part polyurethane resin, in and out.

Posted: **Fri May 12, 2006 10:17 am**

I would be very careful about using 'wet' methods of removal, for example chemical paint stripper, as the chemical will remain in the surface and could warp the wood, remove glue and damage the new coat.
I have not done this with congas, but my experience with furniture has made me realise the problem.
I would suggest sanding the paint off, but maybe someone who has stripped a conga, could help from direct experience

Suave
Diceman

Posted: **Fri May 12, 2006 10:53 am**

I would unscrew everything and then remove the old finish with sandpaper. After that, I would bring them to a paint shop or do it by myself with a paint pistol (if you have one) in the color you want!
Good Luck!

Posted: **Fri May 12, 2006 3:08 pm**

The polyurathane 2 part resin gives you a thick protective finish , no need to spray, just brush; it levels itsel out. The resin yellows a bit with time, so if the paint is white it will show eventually. If interested in this process I will take you through the steps.

Posted: **Fri May 12, 2006 5:29 pm**

Alafia Abures!
I hope that you are all well and in an abundance of blessings!

As for stripping the current finish on a drum, as Charangaman stated, beware of chemical strippers, they will in most cases, affect the glue and cause the staves to separate. I know this first hand with a set of GonBops Mariano drums. First of all, the Quinto wound up splitting from the ground up to just four inches from the top. Fortunately the other two, a 12" tumba, and a 14" supertumba, weren't affected and I was able to sell them on Ebay.

So, stay away from the chemical strippers, and go with sanding. It should be fun though, watching your work as it develops into what you invision it as!

Have fun!

Onile!

Posted: **Fri May 12, 2006 5:42 pm**

BTW!
I have a set of four LP Palladiums, two 14" Supertumbas, and two 12 1/2" Tumbas, which I am seriously considering stripping down and refinishing also. There is one concern I have however, my suspicion is that on top of the staves, there is a lamenant glued on to it. Sort of like the cheap furniture at KMart and Walmarts, if you know what I mean. I keep looking at it, and don't see the staves clearly distinguished in the drum.

When I first received the drums a couple of years ago, one of them began a small separation, but it wasn't all the way through to the inside, so I began suspecting this then. Have any of you all who may have these same drums had this experience? Either way, if I don't sell them, I'm gonna re-do them. I actually think it'll be fun to do on my own anyway!

Many blessings!
Onile!

Posted: **Fri May 12, 2006 6:49 pm**

I recommend sanding, you move faster , don't have to wait till the chemicals take effect, plus they mess with your skin. Also that way you get rid of those surface scratches. Some woods with tighter grains will requiere to go all of the three grains with sanding. If you plan to stain the wood do it gradualy thin coat by thin coat, using a rag and rub the stain into the wood and do it following the direction of the grain,that way you don't get spots as if painted with a brush. And polyurathane resin it , is nice and thick eventuall surface scratches will not touch the wood and you can buff out easy, and if you like just put another coat on and all the sctratches dissapear, will look like knew again. You may see the poly finish on some bars. i did a bar where I applied 6 coats had to put sea shells under.

Posted: **Sat May 13, 2006 4:26 am**

Thank you guys for the promp response. When I decide to get started I will definitely stay away from the chemicals.

Posted: **Sat May 13, 2006 4:16 pm**

If you are going to paint them a color, you won't need to strip the finish all the way. Just rough it with 320 grit, and paint it with automotive spray enamel in any color you want. Don't use laquer, as it may eat the original finish and cause bubbling or wrinkling, if the oroiginal happens to be enamel, or an incompatible lacquer. I have painted guitars in this manner, and even used the polyurethane floor varnish that yellows. over a stained finish, I like the way it turned out, but there is a polyurethane that doesn't yellow for a little more money. Or you can spray an automotive enamel or urethane clearcoat depending on what equipment you have access to. I love to paint, and have completely repainted whole cars, motorcycles, guitars, furniture...anything with paint, pretty much. No congas yet, but I plan to fibertglass the inside of my bongos sometime. Cheap way to really brighten them up.

God bless!

-Ron

Posted: **Sat May 13, 2006 5:00 pm**

What i have done is poly the interior of my Gon Bops and what a difference that made. A more balanced sound.

Rumba, Amor y Paz
OLSONGO

Posted: **Tue May 16, 2006 2:03 am**

I refinished a pair of Gon Bops a year ago and had no trouble. I used a small electric sander and some elbow grease to remove the old finish. I fixed some splits using 2 part marine epoxy( for water resistance) and a homemade rig to squeeze the drum back in shape, let them sit for about 5 days and then started the refinish. I used a polystain(stain and polyurethane in one)in a satin finish, applying 5 coats. I replaced some missing rivets on the rings and viola...the finished product. I'm pretty happy with them and had intentions of selling them, but I havent' yet.

Attachment: http://mycongaplace.com/forum/eng/uploa ... ground.jpg

Posted: **Tue May 16, 2006 3:12 am**

bdrbongo,

You did an excellent job dude. Those bops look awsome.

Posted: **Tue May 16, 2006 12:42 pm**

Thanks! All told it took about 3-4 months to finish them. I took my time with the sanding so it would be even, and filled in some of the gouges in the shell with a two part wood epoxy/putty. You can see some of the blemishes up close, but I'm still satisfied with it. They could use new skins, but since I don't play them out ( I have another set I play), I thought I would let the new owner take care of that. They are still for sale, according to my wife

.

Posted: **Wed May 17, 2006 3:04 pm**

Hi there

I used to own a pair of meinl marathon series. they were burgundy color and the finish wasn't that nice anymore.
I just removed all the hardware and sanded them down to the wook.
I then applied a polurethane mat varnish and they looked like new.

I build percussions (make percussions) too and I always sand and varnish the wood. The look is great.

There is a post somewhere in this forum on how to do your own gwoka... check it out.

B

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Experimenting with the finish on a Conga