The missing link's

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Re: The missing link's

Postby Psych1 » Sun Jan 09, 2011 10:01 pm

Those old Fiberglassed/gel-coated oak GBs look much better when stripped - the old coating gets bubbles and cloudy. But, that is what hold them together for 30-40 years. When you refinish them - they often split.

Also - spray cheese is disgusting!

Also - somewhere here there is a post about getting the rubber ends for hockey sticks, $1 each at sports stores, cutting them and fitting them as rubber conga feet - they are supposed to work the same as the LP ones - but, I never tried it.
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Re: The missing link's

Postby Bongobilly » Sun Jan 09, 2011 10:07 pm

Thank's guy's for all of your input. I like my conga's to look good and perform even better. Thank's bongosnotbombs for the info on the finish, now i have an ideal as to how im going to finish them. Just waiting for warmer weather and i will resin coated myself. I did some research on product's that they use on boat's. Will take picture's of this process when the time come's. Also thank's Jerry Bembe for the tung oil ideal as i think that will be the first thing i will do.I poly the inside;s on my quinto when i first got it in the early 80's cause i wanted the drum to sound better and also hand filed a 45 degree bearing edge cause i wanted to sound like my Junior's which has a 45 degree bearing edge The quinto sound's great now because of the Bill Confer head i put on but nothing sound's like a Junior for sure.
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Re: The missing link's

Postby bongosnotbombs » Mon Jan 10, 2011 2:47 am

Bongobilly wrote: I did some research on product's that they use on boat's. Will take picture's of this process when the time come's.

You might want to take a look at surfboards and surf board repair kits. That is how I learned about fiberglass, repairing my surfboards back in the day.
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Re: The missing link's

Postby Jerry Bembe » Mon Jan 10, 2011 7:05 am

Billy,
I agree with you 100% on the bearing edge. I have several Gon Bops and it is amazing the diversity within this same product line and the bearing edge. Some had a 45 degree bearing edge and others have the round. I prefer a partial round and 45 degree. If the 45 does not have enough wood it will weaken the edge and it can crack. Make sure you are careful about removing wood froma a structural aspect.

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Re: The missing link's

Postby roberthelpus » Mon Jan 10, 2011 3:28 pm

Can you put another clear coat on without completely stripping the original coat? How would you go about that? Of course you can do that with an opaque finish.

I find it very odd, but there is a whole thing in the guitar world now, where people actually spend extra money to have their brand new guitars made to look old. Every thing from gently aged to played to death, with the price rising accordingly. Then there is the famous artist guitars that claim to have copied everything down to matching cigarette burns, and that goes for big $$$.


Disclaimer: I do not personally eat, or condone the eating of cheese-like products in aerosol cans. It's just an expression that I made up years ago along the lines of The best thing since sliced bread.
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Re: The missing link's

Postby bongosnotbombs » Mon Jan 10, 2011 5:56 pm

roberthelpus wrote:Can you put another clear coat on without completely stripping the original coat? How would you go about that? Of course you can do that with an opaque finish.

Yes, you can do this. Just lightly sand the original coat then apply a coat of resin referred to as a hot coat. A hot coat is a coat of resin that has had a little more catalyst added to the resin, making it "hot". A hot coat drys harder than a normal coat or sanding coat. A hot coat can be sanded to a nice polish.
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Re: The missing link's

Postby roberthelpus » Tue Jan 11, 2011 4:02 pm

Does the hot coat dissolve or melt into the older coat and fuse with it? that would be best.
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Re: The missing link's

Postby bongosnotbombs » Wed Jan 12, 2011 2:39 am

roberthelpus wrote:Does the hot coat dissolve or melt into the older coat and fuse with it? that would be best.

It creates a new layer that is bonded to the previous one.
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Re: The missing link's

Postby Bongobilly » Wed Jan 12, 2011 6:31 am

bongosnotbombs: Ok so where can i get the resin or should i look up someone who doe's surfboard repair?
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Re: The missing link's

Postby bongosnotbombs » Wed Jan 12, 2011 6:51 am

Bongobilly wrote:bongosnotbombs: Ok so where can i get the resin or should i look up someone who doe's surfboard repair?

I'm pretty sure fiberglass resin and catalyst is available at any of those Home Depot, Lowe's kind of places. Just a warning, fiberglass is pretty messy, it drips and when it hardens forget about it. Think thin coats that are more easily managed. Good luck.
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Re: The missing link's

Postby Jerry Bembe » Wed Jan 12, 2011 8:46 am

Epoxy is an other alternative. There are many options at any wood specialty stores. I have found that these old wood woorkers are facininated with instruments and have some of the best experience and advice to offer. I plan to seal and protect my equipment this way. My wood store guys (Woodcraft or any other will do) suggested "System Three" Silver Tip Marine Epoxy and their phone # is 1-800-333-5514 or visit systemthree.com. They told me that they have excellent support and gave me a great handbook (32 pages!) going through the basics. I have not had the time to follow up on this yet but if you do please post about your experience.

I have found that gell coat from the wood store is possibly more manageablebut would also be messy. Correct me if I am wrong BNB.

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Re: The missing link's

Postby Bongobilly » Thu Jan 13, 2011 4:18 am

Here is some information on this subject http://www.boatrepairvideos.com/id9.html And a product with vinyl ester in it http://www.duratec1.com/dp1904-045%201908-045.html
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