Another mounting question

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Postby umannyt » Sat Feb 09, 2008 7:00 pm

onile wrote:now comes the cutting...

I had to change the horse skin myself of my Gon Bops CA bongos, after it split, with one of JCR's mule skins which I purchased via Isaac.

I've had great luck just using a simple box cutter knife and carefully cutting the skin (while still wet) with the blade facing outward (instead of facing inward) the head. Thus, I was able to safely cut the excess skin off without having to use any shield.

Has anybody else done this or thought of doing this? I'm curious.

My 2 cents, :D




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Postby OLSONGO » Sat Feb 09, 2008 7:52 pm

Onile , bro always gracias for the credit.
I have been skinning heads I say over 30 yrs. the string technique is to really have 100 % control of the skin, especially when you have very little skin to work with.
And to cut the extra skin I just cut outwards, resting the blade on the crown and following its line. It should take you about 10 mins to put the new skin and head on.

Paz
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Postby umannyt » Sat Feb 09, 2008 10:10 pm

OLSONGO wrote:And to cut the extra skin I just cut outwards, resting the blade on the crown and following its line. It should take you about 10 mins to put the new skin and head on.

Paz
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Olsongo,

This is exactly what I was talking about: cutting outwards. I, too, rest the blade of my box cutter on the crown and follow its line throughout the crown's circumference. It guarantees a straight-line cut throughout.

It makes cutting faster, too, 'cause you can do it in "just" one long, smooth circular action. You avoid having to cut the extra skin a little at a time.

More importantly, there's absolutely no worry of nicking any part of the head. This method makes a lot of sense.

Thanks for confirming. :D




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Postby blango » Sun Feb 10, 2008 7:56 pm

G-man!

Thanks for the kind words! Glad to hear it went well.

Have fun,

Tony
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Postby akdom » Sun Feb 10, 2008 10:53 pm

umannyt wrote:
OLSONGO wrote:And to cut the extra skin I just cut outwards, resting the blade on the crown and following its line. It should take you about 10 mins to put the new skin and head on.

Paz
Olsongo

Olsongo,

This is exactly what I was talking about: cutting outwards. I, too, rest the blade of my box cutter on the crown and follow its line throughout the crown's circumference. It guarantees a straight-line cut throughout.

It makes cutting faster, too, 'cause you can do it in "just" one long, smooth circular action. You avoid having to cut the extra skin a little at a time.

More importantly, there's absolutely no worry of nicking any part of the head. This method makes a lot of sense.

Thanks for confirming. :D

I trim my skins exactly the same way.

By pulling the skin upwarde with pliers, you get a regular cut below the crown's level. Very neat result.

B
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Postby yambu321 » Sun Feb 10, 2008 11:53 pm

BOTH METHODS WORK JUST FINE.

EITHER WITH THE BLADE POINTED OUTWARD ON THE CROWN, OR WITH THE BLADE POINTED INWARD WHILE USING A STRIP OF "SHEET METAL" TO PROTECT THE MOUNTED SKIN.

IF USING THE SHIELDING METHOD YOU MUST TAKE EXTRA CARE, NOT TO LET THE BLADE GO UNDER THE SHIELD, OR YOU WILL DAMAGE THE SKIN.

ALSO, ALWAY'S USE BRAND A NEW HEAVY DUTY RAZOR BLADE TIP, FOR EACH SKIN TO BE TRIMMED. OTHERWISE YOU'LL GO THROUGH A MUCH MORE RISKIER, AND HARDER TIME.

HERE'S A PHOTO OF MY GON BOPS HEMBRA. I USED THE SHIELDING METHOD ON THIS MULE SKIN. :D

CHARLIE "EL COQUI" VERDEJO




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Postby yambu321 » Sun Feb 10, 2008 11:56 pm

THE COMPLETED JOB OF BOTH THE MACHO, AND THE HEMBRA. :D

CHARLIE "EL COQUI" VERDEJO




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Postby Mike » Mon Feb 11, 2008 6:41 am

Charlie,
that´s a beautiful bongó!
Just one question:
the skin on your macho looks rather thick.
Is the the sound alright, can you tune it up high?

Best wishes
Mike
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Postby caballoballo » Mon Feb 11, 2008 11:35 am

Vaya Charlie, tas hecho un mostro,beautiful job.
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Postby yambu321 » Mon Feb 11, 2008 12:18 pm

THANKS; MIKE AND CABALLO.

YES, THE MACHO HAS THE THICKER MULE SKIN. NORMALLY MOST WOULD PUT THE THINNER SKIN, FOR THE MACHO. BUT I WANTED TO TRY DOING IT THE OTHER WAY AROUND.

THE SLIGHTLY THICKER MULE ON THE MACHO, ALLOWS FOR GREATER TENSIONING, AND DURABILITY, WHILE ALSO PROVIDING A CLEAN STUCCATO SOUND, WITH DETAILED SLAPS.

THE HEMBRA ALSO SOUNDS GREAT WITH THE THINNER SKIN . BUT I MUST ADMIT, IT FELT A LITTLE WIERD TO ME IN THE BIGGINING. BECAUSE THE MACHO WAS A LITTLE STIFFER, WHILE THE HEMBRA FELT SOFTER.
(THAT WAS JUST THE FIRST DAY) . NOW, IT JUST FEELS FANTASTIC :;):

CHARLIE "EL COQUI" VERDEJO




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Postby caballoballo » Mon Feb 11, 2008 1:38 pm

Charlie, Yes the thick mule takes lots of tension, that tension also expose the shell to higher stress & the risk of cracking. Once a long time ago a friend ask me if I have a spare ready mounted skin to be use on an Lp generation 2, I gave him 1 kind of thick , e cranket up really high, a few minutes later the macho shell just exploded. :(
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Postby JimG » Mon Feb 11, 2008 1:55 pm

I've become more comfortable with the idea of replacing the skin on an old Lp Classic quinto, thanks to the advice and methods in this thread. I'm just so tired of the sound and feel of want to get that thick layer of wax paper off.

It will be a project for this summer. My question is, having never done anything like this, do you trim the skin at any certain level of dryness? Do you trim as soon as you have tightened the first time, 2 hours, 8 hours?

From the video of the Lp guy and pictures from others, the skin looks fairly wet and plyable. I understand to certainly not wait until it's too dry. But have any of you found a certain time better than another?

Thanks for all the advice,
Jim
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Postby blango » Mon Feb 11, 2008 2:21 pm

Jim,

As soon as possible, but make sure the ring is seated in the crown and the skin is 'locked' down.

If you trim it when its as wet as possible, you will have much less risk of nicking the skin.

hope that helps,

Tony
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Postby yambu321 » Tue Feb 12, 2008 1:12 am

CABALLO,

YOU ARE RIGHT. HIGHER TENSIONING WILL CAUSE GREATER STRESSES ON THE SHELLS AND THE HARDWARE. BUT I NEVER DO, OVER TENSION MY DRUMS. ACTUALLY, TO ME, THEY GET THERE VERY QUICKLY. AND TUNING SEEMS NO DIFERENT THAN BEFORE. THE SKIN ON MY MACHO IS THICKER, BUT NOT BY MUCH.

I LOVE MY BONGO'S AS I AM SURE, YOU LOVE YOURS AS WELL. WE'LL ALWAY'S TREAT THEM RIGHT! :;):

QUE TENGA SUERTE SIMPRE, MI HERNANO.

CHARLIE "EL COQUI" VERDEJO




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Postby congalou » Tue Feb 12, 2008 8:06 pm

Hello guys !

For cut my skins, I put on my cutter a "stanley hook blade" using usualy for the carpet (wall to wall). It's very easy, regular and I don't need protection.

Here is a photo :

Galou.


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