Dropped LP Classic?

[PRDRconguero]

In the process of cleaning up an old LP fiberglass classic to sell, I noticed that the drum appears to have been dropped and landed on one side of the top/bearing edge. About 25% of the bearing edge is about 1/8" lower the rest of the edge. I know this will affect sound and tuning but is there any way around it besides careful tuning? I didn't notice this until I took off the broken skin.

I got the drum for close to nothing but I wanted to make room for other drums I bought and are on the way. Any advice? Thanks.

You can see the damage on the left side of the bearing edge.

[willie55]

i think i seen a post on something like this, and they had a fix for it. Cuco (leedy2) might of been the one who responded. you might IM him, or he will see this and respond

[Bongobilly]

What you can do is either bondo it or by some Kwikwood at any hardware store. Might be easier to use the later. Ive used these to rebuild bearing edges on drum shells with success. First sand the area to be repaired and wipe it clean with rubbing alcohol than to use this Kwikwood and you have to mold it with you hand's to activate it than apply it on the bearing edge and mold it to the shape and height where it's suppose to be and let dry. Than you can sand it into shape. To make the bearing edge flat take a piece of sandpaper and stick it to an flat area like an old tile( A big piece) and turn the conga in a circle on the flat surface until it even. The key is to mold that Kwikwood as close as you can to the original surface.

[Chupacabra]

You could use the above mentioned products to repair the bearing edge but it will still affect the sound of the drum. The dissimilar materials have different characteristics, and they will also crack and fall off over a couple of years. Especially if you use bondo.

The best thing to do is to completely file and sand the damaged area away until you are left with the natural shape of the shell - minus the damaged area. Do not use fine grain sand paper or fine toothed file at this point. Go with a rasp or really coarse paper so it will make a good bonding surface. When this is done make sure all the dust is removed from the surface and it is clean.

You will need to get some fibreglass strand and fibreglass cloth and some two part epoxy. I recommend "West System" it's expensive but good. But don't go for anything that's too fancy (like marine epoxy for example) because you will be trying to match as close as possible the material that was used to make the shell. Follow the mixing directions for the hardener/catalyst and resin very carefully because if you put too much hardener the batch will cook off and will be all kinds of trouble. Not enough and the resin won't cure. Don't mix more that you can use in one session and if it does start to harden stop using it and mix another batch after the current layer has cured. If you use MEKP as the catalyst make sure you read the safety sheets very carefully because that stuff is NASTY!

You apply a thick layer of resin on the surface and then blend in the strand completely so there are no gaps or bubbles. Then you apply another layer of resin and apply more strand. Do this until it looks like the gap is almost filled in then apply one last layer of resin and then put the fibreglass cloth over it and at this point you REALLY have to make sure there are no gaps or pockets. Then put some more resin on the surface to finish it. Some people like to lay a sheet of thin plastic over the wet surface and work it over the surface to give it a very smooth finish once it has set, or you can just use a gel coat that is color matched to your shell. Either way, you will still need to do some sanding and filing to produce the bearing edge of the shell.
If you have never done fibreglass repair before, practice on something that is similar first to make sure you get the technique down. It's not that difficult. It would be good to do some more research first as well because this is just a quick description of a basic repair, but there isn't really much more to it than that.
Make sure you use rubber gloves when handling the materials and use a dust mask when sanding and filing the finished surface. And ferchrissakes keep your fingers outta yer nose and eyes when you are handling this stuff!

The tools you will need will be a small fibreglass roller ( it has ridges on the roller, not flat) to apply the layers, a spreader and/or disposable paint brush (1 or 1 1/2 inch), some mixing sticks, coarse sand paper (80 grit) or a rasp, fine sandpaper (180 or 220) for finishing, maybe some thin plastic sheet if you want. And don't forget your safety equipment! It's best to do this in a very well ventilated area because the fumes are strong and the sanding produces fine dust.

Once I learned how to do this I wanted to go around and "fix" everything I could with fibreglass until I ran out of materials and was left with the resin coated tools. They clean off well with acetone while the resin is still uncured.

[PRDRconguero]

Thank you for all the responses guys. I may have to sell as-is since there is a lot of work involved, and my 1 bedroom apartment is not the best work area.

I wouldn't mind trying if I could, but it's not worth it since I was going to get rid of it anyway.

[congalou]

I think it will be a difficult and expensive repair. And you need an area : It's not good to use fiberglass on an apartment you are living....

Lot of money, lot of time, pollution, difficult work.... Maybe a better idea to sell it as-is.

Galou.

[Anonimo]

POST REMOVED BY THE AUTHOR

[PRDRconguero]

[quote="leedy2"]The drum can be fixed you must go to an auto body shop that deals with fiberglass or even a boat shop.[/quote

Thanks Leedy but I wasn't planning on keeping it even if it was in perfect condition. I already listed it on NYC craigslist.

[Ernesto Pediangco]

Not because of dropping ! These Lp glass drums have an internal Alma ring which is supposed to help keep the drum round. The construction & design in these days was sloppy since there was little competition to compete. Lp made glass drums before making wood ones. The molds for the shells are probably not even designed by Lp but were acquired ...like many early Lp products. Any way...this is evidence of delamination of the fiberglass layers from constant stress. Many Lp's glass drums did this. Two methods of repairing the shells sound edge so as to correct the bearing edge is ( 1 ) grind away the excessive protruding glass that makes the drum out of round & to grind away the surface gel coat to expose the resins which I can bet have pockets of air trapped in there which created the void that the fliber glass layers delaminated from, causing a slow implosion. You may even see the internal metal ring in there ? Next....you can add new layers of fiberglass fabric & resins to build up the void to be as close as you can to the original shape of the drum in this area. This is a skill that is best done by experienced fiberglass auto body or shipyard boat repair guys, but you can learn from basic instructional books...how to work fiberglass & do body work to re sculpture the shell & sound edge. If it were not this bad...you could use a epoxy like JB Weld which is even stronger than fiberglass resins and easier to shape and do the finishing touches. How ever...the refinishing should be fiber glass gel coat...not paint ! That's another issue. These are the reasons I do not buy Lp products. They did not stand behind their design flaws. This kind of damage should be compensated for since it was a design & fabrication flaw. At least with a wood shell, simpler repair & refinishing options exist.

[Ernesto Pediangco]

Not because of dropping ! These Lp glass drums have an internal Alma ring which is supposed to help keep the drum round. The construction & design in these days was sloppy since there was little competition to compete. Lp made glass drums before making wood ones. The molds for the shells are probably not even designed by Lp but were acquired ...like many early Lp products. Any way...this is evidence of delamination of the fiberglass layers from constant stress. Many Lp's glass drums did this. Two methods of repairing the shells sound edge so as to correct the bearing edge is ( 1 ) grind away the excessive protruding glass that makes the drum out of round & to grind away the surface gel coat to expose the resins which I can bet have pockets of air trapped in there which created the void that the fliber glass layers delaminated from, causing a slow implosion. You may even see the internal metal ring in there ? Next....you can add new layers of fiberglass fabric & resins to build up the void to be as close as you can to the original shape of the drum in this area. This is a skill that is best done by experienced fiberglass auto body or shipyard boat repair guys, but you can learn from basic instructional books...how to work fiberglass & do body work to re sculpture the shell & sound edge. If it were not this bad...you could use a epoxy like JB Weld which is even stronger than fiberglass resins and easier to shape and do the finishing touches. How ever...the refinishing should be fiber glass gel coat...not paint ! That's another issue. These are the reasons I do not buy Lp products. They did not stand behind their design flaws. This kind of damage should be compensated for since it was a design & fabrication flaw. At least with a wood shell, simpler repair & refinishing options exist.

Old classic drums are not Better...they are just old & banged up and showing damage due to poor design or fabrication or both....and shows the abuses from years of use & poor maintnence. Classic era does not equate to classic quality. They are separate realities.

[Ernesto Pediangco]

You could use the above mentioned products to repair the bearing edge but it will still affect the sound of the drum. The dissimilar materials have different characteristics, and they will also crack and fall off over a couple of years. Especially if you use bondo.
* Ernesto says.....NEVER USE BONDO...not even on a car repair * These are fiberglass drums requiring fiberglass repair....or just donate them as they are...to a needy public school & buy a newer better made product. I will never again repair a drum like this. Its easier to build from scratch in most cases. Since I am Haz Mat certified....I view fiberglass construction as a toxic proceedure requiring specialized environment and personal protective equipment besides actual repair and clean up materials. Union wages would be about $ 50 an hour for an individual workers time & labor. A company like a boat repair yard may add company overhead etc into the cost. Consider if it is worth the cost and the fact that its value is far less even after repair. A New Lp matador fiberglass drum is the same item aside from Matador side plates. Buy Matadors and part out the damaged drums remaining parts !? ( my 2 cents ) Ernesto P.
The best thing to do is to completely file and sand the damaged area away until you are left with the natural shape of the shell - minus the damaged area. Do not use fine grain sand paper or fine toothed file at this point. Go with a rasp or really coarse paper so it will make a good bonding surface. When this is done make sure all the dust is removed from the surface and it is clean.

You will need to get some fibreglass strand and fibreglass cloth and some two part epoxy. I recommend "West System" it's expensive but good. But don't go for anything that's too fancy (like marine epoxy for example) because you will be trying to match as close as possible the material that was used to make the shell. Follow the mixing directions for the hardener/catalyst and resin very carefully because if you put too much hardener the batch will cook off and will be all kinds of trouble. Not enough and the resin won't cure. Don't mix more that you can use in one session and if it does start to harden stop using it and mix another batch after the current layer has cured. If you use MEKP as the catalyst make sure you read the safety sheets very carefully because that stuff is NASTY!

You apply a thick layer of resin on the surface and then blend in the strand completely so there are no gaps or bubbles. Then you apply another layer of resin and apply more strand. Do this until it looks like the gap is almost filled in then apply one last layer of resin and then put the fibreglass cloth over it and at this point you REALLY have to make sure there are no gaps or pockets. Then put some more resin on the surface to finish it. Some people like to lay a sheet of thin plastic over the wet surface and work it over the surface to give it a very smooth finish once it has set, or you can just use a gel coat that is color matched to your shell. Either way, you will still need to do some sanding and filing to produce the bearing edge of the shell.
If you have never done fibreglass repair before, practice on something that is similar first to make sure you get the technique down. It's not that difficult. It would be good to do some more research first as well because this is just a quick description of a basic repair, but there isn't really much more to it than that.
Make sure you use rubber gloves when handling the materials and use a dust mask when sanding and filing the finished surface. And ferchrissakes keep your fingers outta yer nose and eyes when you are handling this stuff!

The tools you will need will be a small fibreglass roller ( it has ridges on the roller, not flat) to apply the layers, a spreader and/or disposable paint brush (1 or 1 1/2 inch), some mixing sticks, coarse sand paper (80 grit) or a rasp, fine sandpaper (180 or 220) for finishing, maybe some thin plastic sheet if you want. And don't forget your safety equipment! It's best to do this in a very well ventilated area because the fumes are strong and the sanding produces fine dust.

Once I learned how to do this I wanted to go around and "fix" everything I could with fibreglass until I ran out of materials and was left with the resin coated tools. They clean off well with acetone while the resin is still uncured.

[Ernesto Pediangco]

i think i seen a post on something like this, and they had a fix for it. Cuco (leedy2) might of been the one who responded. you might IM him, or he will see this and respond

See my repair advice below...and the cause is delamination , not dropping. I sugest u seel the drum parts and recycle the shell...or donate it to a school or teen center ? Lp JUNK ! Ernesto P.

[PRDRconguero]

See my repair advice below...and the cause is delamination , not dropping. I sugest u seel the drum parts and recycle the shell...or donate it to a school or teen center ? Lp JUNK ! Ernesto P.

Thanks for the detailed response Ernesto but I sold it on Craigslist for $50. I listed it for $80 but I did notice cracking underneath the bearing edge in that area...more damage than I originally thought.

I can't complain too much because I paid $60 for it when it had a bad skin on it, and had believed the drum was ok.

A $10 hit is nothing too bad at all. I needed to make room anyway.