Ash congas

[congalou]

Requinto and Mambiza !!!

[Anonimo]

POST REMOVED BY THE AUTHOR

[congalou]

The futur Quinto,

I think I will fiberglass it with epoxy resin and put 7 lugs : STRONG !!!

For try !!!

G.

[roberthelpus]

Go man go!

[congalou]

Hello Congeros,

I'm actually testing epoxy resin and fiberglass on a piece of wood before do the same thing on my quinto.

G.

[congalou]

In studio with my Ash congas :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rgZRhRawLYw

G.

[Jerry Bembe]

Very nice work. I looked at your Youtube postings and I have a question (perhaps this has been previously adressed).

I see you posted your "System" for eliminating overtones and ringing for solid tones. What is your "System" and how do you achieve this?

I have heard many different methods from duct tape, silicone and rubber cement being used on the under side of a head. I would like to hear what your method is.

Repectfully,

Jerry

[congalou]

Hello Jerry, here is the trhead about it :

viewtopic.php?f=14&t=4494&start=15

Cheers.

[Jerry Bembe]

Thanks Congalou,

I really dig that dampener. I have done dampening idea that might not be as effective. I wedged 3-6 dowel rods inside the belly of a conga that rang and it ras reduced by this action. This has not been effective with all of my ringers so this device looks like a great place to start. Wedging a dowel rod inside also can create unnessary stress and scrape the insides too.

The design you shared appears to be a superior design.

I have the highest respect for your innovation and efforts. You are an inspiration to us all.

Jerry

[congalou]

Thanks Jerry, It encourage me to continue my research !!

Has you said, wedging a dowel rod can create few stress (not huge, I think) and scrap inside. That's why I use a magnet easy to put down and take off.

About my quinto, It's very cold in France for the moment, I can't use Epoxy resin outside.... I think I will wait the good season for do this thing.

Happy new year from France !

Gaël.

[Ernesto Pediangco]

he shells look great & the bearing edges look great on these pics, & the pics of the cow hide where its ready to be cut for 3 drum heads is a good point, since factory drums & custon drums rearle have 3 matching heads, Getting 3 heads of same cow hide gives 3 heads to select for the particular drums best thickness per drum fit. The drums should sound much more balanced as a set this way ! Interior fiberglass is a backward approach ! Gon Bops used to wrap an exterior coat of clear or color gel coated fiberglass fabric & resin that served liked the bands to hold the drums togeather & made them less prone to cracking & more weather proof w/o changing the interior surface or adding to much weight. I use tung oil to moisture seal the interior of the drum. There are ancient wood art in museums that had used tung oil hundreds of years ago & still have not cracked !

[Ernesto Pediangco]

It's for reenforced the shell, The tension is very strong at the side plate, I think that with a layer of fiber, the stress is well spread inside.

I think it's good for the long life of the shell. Of course, it could be bad for the sound, but I'm not shure, I have to try to know. And it could be interesting to paint the layer with special paint for the sound.

I will try without a layer and maybe put the layer after, it could be good to know.

Galou.

Actualy, fiberglassing the interior is not the only option to re enforce the shell at the lug plates. I have used thin ply wood that I steamed, and used as backing plates w/ wide fender washers. The ply wood shims were 5" circles. They conformed to the shells ( i used Gorilla glue ) as they dried, they molded to the shell in the area that needed support and the wide washers helped anchor the lug & distribute the stress load w/o choking the shell in any way. Instead of paint ~ I would use stain & then seal it w/ Tung oils. Tung oils seal the wood & keeps the wood from cracking due to normal expansion & contraction & if the shell gets scratched, you can rub more stain & oils in that area with out re surfacing & refinishing w/ paint. IF you have to have a solor coat paint, I suggest you use colored Gel coat like what ship builders use. How ever, paint & gel coats will crack if the drum expands or gets bumped & dinged to hard. Gon Bops used to add a few layers of fiberglass fabric w/ resins & hardeners & then gel coat the fiberglass jacket that was entirely covering the shell, This works best ! It eliminates the need for barrel bands since it locks the drun into its shape & gel coats will resist cracking. Gel coat is what fiberglass drums have as color coats, it is a paint made from fiberglass resins & hardeners, same as used on fiber glass cars & boats ! Any ship yards in your area ?

[Ernesto Pediangco]

Very nice work. I looked at your Youtube postings and I have a question (perhaps this has been previously adressed).

I see you posted your "System" for eliminating overtones and ringing for solid tones. What is your "System" and how do you achieve this?

I have heard many different methods from duct tape, silicone and rubber cement being used on the under side of a head. I would like to hear what your method is.

Repectfully,

Jerry

I have had great success using rubber cement or adhesive foam rubber weather sealer ~ thin 1/16" to make a ring circle shape like a tone control ring used on bass drum heads or tomtoms. NEVER use duct tape ! The adheasives are horrible to clean up. Duct tape is best on Ducting !

[Jerry Bembe]

Ernesto,

You present many great ideas. I have used tung oil for years with great success. The duct tape I use on heads is for REMO only. Your methods sound superior to duct tape and I will give it a try.

Regarding duct tape, I have used duct tape on a Fiberskyn 3 head on a Slingerland "Conga" (the Ricky Ricado type). I completly covered the underside except for a 3" circle in the center and the tone resembles a Samba Rebolo/Surdo. The deep bass tone is excellent with a 12" head but it is close to a 20" surdo's tone.

Thanks,

Jerry

[congalou]

Hey !!

Here is the quinto with époxy resin and fiberglass before and after sanding, and the harware in construction. Epoxy is very strong !!!